One of the more interesting tidbits concerning woven Kevlar armor is that it retains its protective qualities exceedingly well over a long period of time. 30+ year old panels still stop the threats they were designed to stop, with boring regularity.

Even more intriguing, is a study showing that older vests may in fact get *BETTER* with age. Wine, cheese, and woven aramid? You can find the abstract here:

Some quotations from the article:

“NIJ tests failed to demonstrate any significant differences in 10-year-old armor, regardless of the extent of use or apparent physical condition”

“The warranty exists solely to limit the manufacturer’s liability on the product and is not a reflection of the anticipated service life of the product.

I hear lots of folks say that their department religiously discards vests as soon as the 5 year period is up. While I understand that this is due to departmental liability, the idea that these vests suddenly become worthless is ridiculous. If they are 100% woven kevlar, they are barely broken in, and should easily have another quarter century (or longer) of use left in them. I say longer because I have not been able to get my hands on vests older than about 36 years. Saving a few of these for the 40 year mark, and will report back on the results.

Unfortunately, this extreme longevity only applies to woven aramid vests, and in my experience, the older ones are typically built better than the new. Laminates will experience peeling and edge creep, the newer all-woven vests also see much more edge creep (fraying) that reduces the effective area of protection.

If you have an older vest in good shape, remember there are things you can do to keep it going: keep it out of sun, or exposure to florescent bulbs (which are actually worse in some ways than sunlight), keep it dry, clean, and free of mold or mildew. Wash with clean water (not tap, not distilled) and a mild detergent, let drip dry.

So keep that older vest, and appreciate a well-built vintage armor!

Well, apparently my last post was a little too pointed, as it has already garnered a response. Unfortunately, the response was based on the notion that I am a “supporter” of steel plates over ceramic.

If anyone can show, unequivocally, where I have ever written that steel plates are completely “superior” to ceramic plates, they get a free rock sling.

This is why reading comprehension is so vital, and yet found lacking in most interactions.

Please re-read The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly. No dogs are selected to fight. Just the basic facts about each choice.

I think the problem is that I did not “bash” steel enough compared to ceramic. I will not do so. I make the assumption that all my readers wear big-boy pants, and when I say that steel is HEAVY for type, and experiences FRONT FACE SPALL, they are intelligent enough to weigh these drawbacks versus the advantages. I am not interested in impugning their intellect, or questioning their “seriousness.”

Furthermore, steel is out there. People are using it and will continue to use it. Arguing against something that has such major market penetration is tantamount to arguing against certain computer operating systems, even though we know they have flaws. Instead of lambasting people for their choices, I choose to do something to make that choice safer, just as you can improve your experience with the aforementioned OS with some simple, minor changes. When steel ceases to be used for personal protective gear, so be it.

Finally, it is amusing to me that the response came so quickly- I was not directing it at anyone in particular, certainly not at the guy that responded (inadvertent recon by fire?), but it made my point very clearly. Making a fully informed choice is not purchasing a stake in a fertilizer concern.

The internets are full of pi**ing matches. I am not going to engage in any here.

Let me reiterate, in case the above was too verbose:

Steel= GOOD!
Ceramic= GOOD!

They will all stop centerfire rifle rounds. They all cost varying amounts of money. They all have varying material properties. They are not all the same. Pick one, or two, or all. Use them. Train with them.

Providing objective evaluations on these different material options does not place me into any “faction.” Providing enhancements to any or all of them does not place me into any “faction.” Except perhaps the “faction” that wants to make any and all armor better and safer.

As Musashi said, know your tools, their strengths and weaknesses. If you do, you will use anything to the fullest extent.

It seems that over the past few years there is a growing factionalism and hardening of opinions within the shooting/gear community, and more specifically, regarding choices of armor.

Lately, there have been several very strong pieces written about the complete unsuitability of steel rifle plates, and that ceramic is the *only* viable choice for those who are “serious” about protecting themselves.

While I appreciate an impassioned, well-written argument as much as the next guy, I think that such rigid positions do a disservice to those seeking an honest comprehension of the various self-protection options.

The current “hot topic” of debate seems to be steel vs. ceramic, with proponents of the latter insisting that steel rifle plates have no place whatsoever in the self-protection arena. Ceramic, they argue, is far superior in every way, and steel is nothing but heavy, dangerous, useless dead weight.

One of the primary reasons I started this site was to provide balanced, reasoned, and honest evaluations of various materials and armors that are out there. While it is true that steel has known issues and challenges, ceramic is not perfect, and downplaying these considerations (COST and fragility being the two biggest), do not make them go away. While it is true that there are VERY affordable ceramic plates (the Midwest Guardian IV being at the very top of the list), and also true that ceramic plates are not porcelain dolls, to ignore the fact that EVERY armor (throughout history) is a compromise of many different factors is to ignore reality.

Most people purchase steel plates because they are the most affordable option. They are also hands down the most durable, and if someone has honestly evaluated their needs, and found that they don’t want to worry about their logistics tail (replacing a broken ceramic plate) and would rather allocate the difference in cost to other areas (training/ammo/etc.), then deriding them for their “inferior” choice is not going to alter their decision. It is true that steel plates are heavy for type, and do have issues with front face splash (albeit less of an issue with proper spall-mitigation technologies). But for someone that wants an inexpensive, demonstrably effective way of keeping centerfire rifle rounds out of their vitals, without breaking the bank, steel works.

I advocate selecting the correct tool for the job, and will say right now that not everyone NEEDS a sub-4.5lb. level IV ceramic plate for their particular task. While it is a “nice to have,” most cannot justify the commensurate high cost associated with the “best” armor.

In conclusion, I recommend folks re-read the “Good, Bad, Ugly” posts again. Each of the three major plate types has pros and cons- there is no BEST option for all people or all roles. Know your needs, and know the options. Strong opinions are good, but they should be tempered by the realization that not everyone needs/wants the same thing.

There are some things that just need to exist. UHMWPE (Spectra and Dyneema) armor, though light and exceptionally strong, has an Achilles heel- it will turn back into milk jug plastic if certain temperature thresholds are exceeded.

This applies to both soft and hard armor containing Spectra and Dyneema, and there are currently no test standards that are willing to address this glaring weakness as mentioned here:

Since many end-users do not have a choice in their issued armor, I realized a simple, effective solution was needed. I had a custom thermal sensor created, which would irreversibly change color if certain temperatures were reached. This would let the end user know that the armor had been exposed to unsafe temperatures, preventing them from using potentially compromised armor.

The D-Rmor Gear Armometer is a dashboard for your hard or soft armor, and is overbuilt to stand up to the lifetime of wear associated with duty gear. With a foundation of waterproof paper, it has information sections to record relevant data about the specific panel the Armometer will be attached to. This is then sealed with an included laminate finish-flap to completely render the unit sweat and moisture proof. It is designed to stay with the panel, plate, or helmet for its entire service life. It answers the number one question with UHMWPE armor: is it still viable?

Instructions will be included with each order. Pricing is $12 for the first Armometer, with additional units being $10, no matter how many you buy. Shipping is included in the price, anywhere in CONUS.

Get yours today, and increase your peace of mind.

As many of my readers know by now, steel plates offer tremendous advantages (low cost, extreme durability/multiple hits, thin profile), but do suffer from issues with front-face spall (fragmentation caused by defeated rounds) and weight. Most solutions that attempt to address this issue exacerbate the weight, and negate the advantage of a thin profile.

D-Rmor Gear spall guards address the issue while remaining lightweight and keeping the thin steel plate profile, while stopping 95-98% of all front face spall. The newest version exhibits improved extreme angle spall capture, as shown by the test below.

The plate used was the excellent Maingun Surplus Patriot plate, in flat profile. The plate was placed at a 12 degree angle (to focus the splash pattern more strongly toward the upper edge where the neck/throat would be). This is closer to a worst-case scenario shot, since the residual velocity of the spall is higher.

The test rounds were M855, 20″ barrel, 3000 fps @ 10 FEET. The witness method was a cardboard box. The shoot consisted of two shots, the first with the D-Rmor Gear Version 4.2.3 spall guard installed, the second with the bare plate. The pictures below show the witness box after the first and second shots for direct comparison purposes.

Spall guard and plate mounted in witness material.

Spall guard and plate mounted in witness material.

Seconds after the strike.

Seconds after the first round impact.

Immediately after shot.

Immediately after first shot.

Right side of spall guard after shoot.

Right side of spall guard after first shot.

Top edge of spall guard after shoot.

Top edge of spall guard after first shot.

Upper left edge of spall guard, showing capture of M855 steel core.

Upper left edge of spall guard after first shot, showing capture of M855 steel core.

M855 steel core capture.

M855 steel core capture.

Interior of witness material, first shot, spall guard installed.  Note near complete absence of any spall whatsoever.

Interior of witness material, first shot, spall guard installed. Note near complete absence of *any* spall whatsoever.

Top side witness material, immediately after first shot, SPALL GUARD INSTALLED.

Top side witness material, immediately after first shot, SPALL GUARD INSTALLED.

Right side witness material, spall guard installed.

Right side witness material, first shot, SPALL GUARD INSTALLED.

Left side witness material, spall guard installed.

Left side witness material, first shot, SPALL GUARD INSTALLED.

As you can see, the shot with the guard resulted in nearly total capture of all spall, INCLUDING THE STEEL CORE. The core was captured by the spall arrest material, as can be seen in the upper left angle of the plate. M855 is particularly nasty as a threat, because the spall is lead, copper, AND the steel core, which tends to remain in one piece. In a plate carrier, none of the spall would have had sufficient energy to escape.

Some things to consider when viewing this test: front face spall will punch through wooden target stands, both sides of steel aerosol cans from several feet away, and deeply indent angle iron. The spall guard caught the overwhelming majority of this extremely energetic frag while being UNDER 5 oz. weight and containing NO metal itself.

Top edge, post shoot, NO GUARD INSTALLED- note large amount of spall cutting in chin and throat area. Compare to first pic with guard installed.

Top edge, second shot, BARE PLATE NO GUARD INSTALLED- note large amount of spall cutting in chin and throat area. Compare to first pic with guard installed.

Right edge of witness material, showing massive spall cutting.

Right edge of witness material, second shot, BARE PLATE NO GUARD INSTALLED, showing massive spall cutting.

Left side of witness material, second shot, BARE PLATE NO GUARD INSTALLED, showing massive spall cutting.

Left side of witness material, second shot, BARE PLATE NO GUARD INSTALLED, showing massive spall cutting.

Another shot of top edge, showing high energy of spall fragmentation leaving the box.

Another picture of top edge, second shot, BARE PLATE NO GUARD INSTALLED, showing high energy of spall fragmentation leaving the box and spall cutting.

Right side of witness material.

Right side of witness material, NO GUARD INSTALLED, again note sheer volume of fragmentation and spall cutting without the guard to catch it.

The second shot (bare plate/no guard), in contrast, shows massive spall/fragmentation. So dense is the pattern that it often looks like a saw or cutting tool was used on the cardboard. The majority exits along the edge of the plate, and as can be seen, would have impacted the neck/throat and arms.

Moral of the story? Spall guards are essential when running steel plates.

The Maingun plates are quite impressive. The two M855 rounds impacted almost in the same spot, with only a slight indentation and barely detectable bump on the backside. I will be performing a torture test on this same plate to see how many M855 rounds it can soak up before penetration or cracking, and I have a feeling it will be in the hundreds.

Overall, the new version 4.3.2 guard performed exactly as designed, capturing and mitigating the cloud of high velocity metal that is produced when a round hits steel. Check them out here:

The new style curved Patriot plates can be found here:

Stay tuned for further shoot tests!

Well, as we are in the 21st century, it is with great pleasure that I am announcing the acceptance of Bitcoin for donations.

As I am just one guy with a vision, some knowledge, and a very limited budget, donations are HIGHLY appreciated. If you feel the information you have received on D-Rmor Gear is in any way valuable, chuck a few Bits my way.

If you are feeling generous, you can send donations to:

D-Rmor Gear Bitcoin donation address

D-Rmor Gear Bitcoin donation address

or for the text address:


Every fractional bit helps. Pun intended.

The demands of life have prevented me from working on certain important upgrades to the blog over the past few months. One of these has been a database of the current “best practices” bits of personal protective kit. Fully half of all the communications I get are folks requesting a one-stop list of GOOD places/companies to purchase their armor from. I listened, and (as per my charter SOP) obeyed.

This list will be updated as newer, better, and less expensive armor finds its way to market. It represents my absolute opinion, but INFORMED by experience, hands-on eval, and testing.

Check it out, and let me know what you think:

In discussing rifle armor, three materials usually receive attention: steel, ceramic, and UHMWPE (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene). Each of these has pros and cons, with steel’s claim to fame being its thinness, affordability, and absolutely remarkable durability.

Most steel rifle plates on the market today utilize AR500 steel (which stands for Abrasion Resistant, 500 Brinell Hardness). AR500 is widely used due to its abundance in large sheets, and known properties. It is durable, and of very good quality. However, there are several other “armor steels” that equal or exceed the properties of AR500, including Mil-A-46100. This steel meets more stringent US Military requirements for armor steel, and in thick enough section, will stop the M2-AP black tip round. For use in personnel armor, it will stop common rifle threats such as the M80 ball 7.62 and M855 high velocity green tip penetrator round.

Few companies use this material, as it is more expensive and more difficult to source. One of these companies is Maingun Surplus. The owners and proprietors, Doc and Terri, are committed to putting out the best and most affordable steel plates possible. Their Mil-A-46100 shooters cut front and rear plates, as well as side plates, have been on the market for over a year now, and have received much attention. Initially, these plates were only available in flat contour, which is fine for most folks, and helps keep the cost down.

Recently, Doc and Terri unveiled their newest versions: comfortably curved Mil-A-46100 plates. These will increase comfort for long-term wear, as well as improving concealability for covert use. At just under a hundred bucks a pair SHIPPED, these are pretty much the best choice for steel rifle plates on the market right now.

Doc has tested his plates extensively, and while they share the propensity of all steel plates to produce spall/fragments when struck, he offers a coated option to help mitigate this danger. Coupled with the D-Rmor Gear Spall Guards, the Maingun plates are a winning combination! Check them out here, and give Doc a shout:

Stay tuned for a review and a shoot test of my own. Have a safe Fourth of July!

This is the first of a series of posts that will focus on specific armor from specific manufacturers. You asked (and asked quite frequently) for a resource that would help end users locate best-in-class or best value-for-cost armors.

In the first post, I will be looking at the newest offering from those good folks at Midwest Armor. MA has gained a devoted following by making no-nonsense, high grade armor spanning the entire price range. Not content to rest on their laurels, their most recent innovation is the Venture series, comprising the FM3 and FM4. The FM3 is a level III plate, while the FM4 is rated for AP Black Tip (IV). While the FM3 is impressive in its own right, and will be examined at a later date, we are going to look at the FM4.

Disclosure: I have not received any remuneration from MA or Appalachian Training for this post, and will be purchasing my plate at full price. This post is based on the publicized statistics from MA.

The Venture FM4 is the first of a new generation of plates to achieve areal densities far below what was previously thought possible. Combining a thin strike face of ultrahard ceramic and a backing of Dyneema SB50 (the most advanced rigid UHMWPE currently available), the FM4 is the current best-in class for weight and thickness in level IV plates.

UHMWPE-focused rifle plates have never been known for their thin profile, but the FM4 comes in at a little over three quarters of an inch (.90″) thick. Weight for the medium plate size is right at 5.5 lb (which is a mere 1 lb. over the gold standard/tried and true TAP GAMMA+ which are level III).

As mentioned before, the known issue with UHMWPE is heat exposure. Rigid UHMWPE appears to be somewhat more tolerant of elevated temperatures (which I speculate is due to the thicker section), but it is still critical to keep the plates below 190 Farenheit (the transition temperature for rigid UHMWPE). If this precaution is taken, these plates are nothing short of incredible.

*UPDATED* The most incredible part about these plates is that they *are*, in fact, multi-hit. The specification for level IV is for stopping a single round of M2 AP. The designers at MA built the plates in such that plate integrity is not compromised with successive hits, meaning these plates should soak up several AP rounds that would have turned previous ceramic-focused IV plates to rubble.

These characteristics do not come cheaply. MA offers very affordable level IV multi-curve plates at the low-end of the price range, while the FM4 is their high-end offering. With an MSRP of about $940 a plate, start saving your pennies now.

Midwest continues to push the limits of the possible, and it is exciting to think about what they will come up with next!

If you are looking for the best place to purchase, look no further than Appalachian Training:

Ask for Mike, he is a great guy to deal with, and will make sure you get the armor you need.

If you have not checked out Jerking The Trigger, it is well worth your time. D-Rmor Gear Spall Guards were featured this week. Matt does a great job reviewing the latest and greatest gear, tools, and tactics. Careful, you will probably spend hours surfing all the pages back to the beginning!